The First "Best of CC2 Mail List" Archive

Back to Fantasy Cartography Next Archive

Welcome to cc-l

Majordomo@mailhost.onramp.net

If you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list, you can send mail to <Majordomo@magellan.onramp.net> with the following command in the body of your email message:

unsubscribe cc-l

If you ever need to get in contact with the owner of the list, send email to <owner-cc-l@magellan.onramp.net>.

CC2 & No-show icons

If you cannot see all the icons when CC2 is maximized, do the following: 1) change the screen resolution to 800x600 and hide the taskbar, or 2) change the screen resolution to 1024x768 or higher.

CC2-some stuff to play with

Lonny Eckert

File: CC2somes.mim (753897 bytes)

The myshd.fcw file is my working template. I have included a few examples so that you can better understand how I used the "connect" command in drawing the arms. I used connect to size the shield so that it would be much easier to lay down construction lines. Play with the shields. You'll need to ungroup them and then explode any multipolys. This should help you to understand the uses behind "connect" and "multipoly".

[CC-L] Fill Style Properties & GH map

Mike Wilson

To do a BMP background-- The easiest way I have found it to drop the image into the backgroup (create a new layer and put it there) then FRONT EXCEPT (not) the Background layer. Then use fill mountain/grass/marsh/whatever...

[CC-L] Fill Style Properties & GH map

Lonny Eckert

Hint 1 for Regional Mapping: Create a layer called Construction Lines. Use it as a guide for the Symbols or fill it with a pattern. The layer is easily hidden but can be useful in the future if you decide to pull out a smaller section of the map and to draw in finer detail...

Hint 2 for Regional Mapping: Draw in coastlines with *paths*. Paths can also be multipolied. This is just a bit of self-protection. In CC Pro (DOS), you could fractalize paths but not lines. This could come in handy later on if ProFantasy adds a fractalizer utility in a Win 95 module which similarly can't handle lines.

[CC-L] Forgot to Mention Something and Project Ideas

Lonny Eckert

File size is limited to 14MB.

[CC-L] Mike's Question (its really about parts)

Lonny Eckert

> Lonny - I've just tried to insert a few of your shields as parts & they are almost invisible! Am I doing something wrong? I had to zoom 4 time just to see it.

If you used the set of individual arms I sent you previously such as vair.fcw, or potent.fcw, I'd suggest the following scales:

x60 on a 2000 mile by 1600 mile map

x30 on a 1000 mile by 800 mile map

<10 might be appropriate for a blow up map

Remember they are basically 1 mile by 1 mile symbols. This is the most convenient size to design cartouches.

If you used an arms from the Arm of Ratik file I had sent out, they are actually scaled to 1 inch by 1 inch. Basically this file is for to showcase all of Ratiks arms in a single one page GIF suitable for printing. It is a political key of sorts. I have the individual arms for Ratik in their own files.

[CC-L] A few questions.

Allan Seyberth

The old symbols sets are text. Files with old symbols must be exploded prior to import or you will get garbage. See the readme file, Section 3.0 for some hints on importing from CC Dos.

[CC-L] WoG map standards

Lonny Eckert

File: 2000 x 1600(30 mile hex).FCT (606568 bytes)

HINT: Freeze grid/hex, background and map border layers when working your maps, so that you do not damage these layers accidentally.

[CC-L] Main Map Conventions

Lonny Eckert

File: CCLMainM.mim (62637 bytes)

Suggested Map Conventions for 2000 x 1600 maps:

Symbols: x2

National Arms: x60

City Symbols: x20

Text:

National Names: Arial, red, height 20.0

City Names: Arial, red, height 10.0

Forest, Mountain, River Names: Arial, green grey or blue,10.0

City Names: Arial, red, height 10.0

Forest, Mountain, River Names: Arial, green grey or blue, height 10.0

Heraldic symbols, city symbols, national and city names should be placed on the BORDERS/POLITICAL layer.

[CC-L] ICQ - a great little program

Linda Kekumu

Internet Communications Network. The program is free of charge & basically lets members on your personalized list contact each other in real time & transfer large files. Check out http://www.icq.com/products.html for a whole list of features & a link to download this program.

 

 

[CC-L] Creating symbols in CC2, re: page 53

Jeffery McArthur

I am not happy with the list available houses in the city symbols catalog. So I thought I would try my hand at creating a new one. So I pulled out the manual and tried to follow along. On page 53 it explains how to create a symbol. The problem is when I try to follow the example in the manual I don't have the same options.

Step 1. Open blank.fsc: no problem.

Step 2. Insert symbol: no problem

Step 3. Right click on grid button and select "1 mile grid 2 snap". Well that is just not an option.

From playing around a bit, I know that the grid options stored in the template. That is, if you choose a different template, you get a different grid. My question is what template do I select to give me the "1 mile grid 2 snap"? I could add that grid to any template; but I would prefer to stay with the template used in the example.

[CC-L] Creating symbols in CC2, re: page 53

Linda Kekumu

I also ran into this problem. My solution was to load the 63 x 50 template, right click on the Grid button & select the 1 mile, 1 snap. I just wrote down the info & then added it to my map. At that point I was able to continue the tutorial. I must admit the tutorials are a little confusing - especially for us newcomers!

[CC-L] Creating symbols in CC2, re: page 53

Lonny Eckert

Jeffrey McArthur wrote:

> I am not happy with the list available houses in the city symbols catalog. So I thought I would try my hand at creating a new one. So I pulled out the manual and tried to follow along. On page 53 it explains how to create a symbol. The problem is when I try to follow the example in the manual I don't have the same options.

> Step 1. Open blank.fsc: no problem.

> Step 2. Insert symbol: no problem

> Step 3. Right click on grid button and select "1 mile grid 2 snap". Well that is just not an option.

> >From playing around a bit, I know that the grid options stored in the template. That is, if you choose a different template, you get a different grid. My question is what template do I select to give me the "1 mile grid 2 snap"? I could add that grid to any template; but I would prefer to stay with the template used in the example.

I have always worked in the reverse. I choose my template and then modified my grid to suit what I'm doing.

An example:

In the heraldry symbols I had sent out I often use two grid sizes on any particular drawing. As mentioned before, the arms template I created is one mile by one mile in size which I think is this right size for creating symbols/cartouches for regional mapping. The two grid patterns I typically use a spacing of .1 or .01 depending on the complexity of the drawing. I also change the number of snap divisions depending on what I'm doing.

I also, use the connect command to change the size of my shield pattern. Say I wanted to create a heraldic arms with six horizontal stripes of equal thickness. How do I do it without breaking out a calculator? Easy I cheat by changing the size of the shield template through the connect command from 1 x 1 mile to 0.6 x 0.6 miles. It is then very easy to draw in the horizontal lines of equal thickness. When finishing up, I just group everything together and use connect again expanding the symbol back to 1 x 1 mile.

[CC-L] [Fwd: Re: CC2 Bug?]

Lonny Eckert

>CC2 has been crashing after I attempt to multipoly the coastline on a rather complex coastline. The coastline changes ok to the color, but fails to fill in the land mass with a solid color. After selecting the a new button the program crashes. The crash is reproducible.

The file limitation is 16 MB, but entities stored by Undo can reduce this. Save the drawing before attempting this Multipoly. How many entities are in this Coast, (Info, Count, select the coastline)? I wouldn't recommend making such a large multipoly.

[CC-L] Re: Your question in the CC2 manual and a coup

Lonny Eckert

File: CCLReYou.mim (108374 bytes)

I learned to work with a 1 mile by 1 mile template for drawing all of my arms and cartouches. So I included a template called ARMS SHIELD.FCT. The shield border is of slightly different size than the shield you included in CC2. I did this to make the shield easier to work with.

I'm having a problem which is frustrating me in porting/drawing my arms in CC2. Generally speaking no symbols were used in my arms drawn in the DOS version. Do they still need to be exploded? On face surface they appeared to have transferred beautifully. My arms transferred with layers 0 and layers 1 among others. No matter what I have tried so far I can't get rid of layer 0 or layer 1 or both of them. I want to draw my arms in CC2 so that they show up on the Borders/Political layer. I have included two example arms called Counter-Potent.FCW and Wavy of 24.FCW (this was a real bear to draw) which are giving me this problem. Any help you can will be greatly appreciated.

The readme file procedure didn't mention anything about layer 0.

[CC-L] Importing Images

Jeffery McArthur

>Is there any way I can import an image for the background of a map (only temporary to trace the coastlines)?

Instead of tracing, you could try having in converted. If you are a bit adventurous you can try a program called KVEC at: http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/kkuhl

KVEC can produce a DXF file you "may" be able to import into CC2. I say may, because I have had some problems with this approach.

[CC-L] Background fill hex/square

Lonny Eckert

Mike Wilson wrote:

> Also, what is a good line thickness to use for "icons". Making a Secret Door and Concealed door icon and it seems my lines are too thick and I must use the ignore for display option.

You could experiment with thin filled polygons instead of lines. Should get you away from any display problems.

There is no need to worry about exploding maps that have no symbols in. All CC2 maps have to have a STANDARD and a MERGE layer. Simply rename layer 0 (the MERGE layer in the DOS version) to MERGE and layer 1 to STANDARD.

Yup, I see what you mean now. This seems to me to be a good opportunity for the multipoly command.... Make sure you properly *break* and *trim* borders until you have a continuous border. Then use multipoly with your choice of fills and colors. This would also make for a good tutorial.

[CC-L] RE: Fw: layer defaults & disappearing rivers

Linda Kekumu

This is the answer I received from ProFantasy regarding my disappearing rivers. I'm still wondering if anyone else is having this problem?

The maps are now fine - however, the rivers are still disappearing. What have I got set wrong? I know it must be some setting that is not right, because others are not having this problem. I have set my options as stated above. I am following the manual exactly & this is what I am doing:

1) make an island & choose close to complete it

2) select the river icon & draw a river

3) as I near the coastline, I click on the "on" icon & the river disappears. I am presented with a small box & am supposed to click on the coast. No problem - except that I can not see the river. So I select a point on the coast & sure enough the river attaches perfectly to the coast, but not where I want it, because I can't see where I'm attaching it until after !

Answer From Profantasy

Sorry. The reason that CC2 does not show your river with a dynamic cursor is because it would have to look at where the "ON" cursor is and calculate where the cursor will end up.

I would suggest that you use "Attach" mode to draw your rivers and make sure they link to the coast if you find this lack of visual cue a problem.

Instructions follow:

1. Right click on the Attach button. Select "Nearest Point ON" then press OK.

The cursor will now always lock "ON" any entity that is in the pick box.

2. Start the river. When you get to the last point, click on the coast. CC2 will lock onto the coast exactly.

Don't forget to turn Attach off when you've finished with it. You can do this at any time, even in the middle of drawing a river.

[CC-L] Converting CC 1.1 maps to Gif

Lonny Eckert

> I recall seeing a mention that one could convert a CC map to a gif, possibly via a bitmap, but I seem to be at a loss at how to do so. Could anybody please help me out? (I'm working on a campaign map for my web page.)

You must then import the bitmap into another program for conversion to a GIF file. I'd recommend Paintshop Pro, a shareware program.

[CC-L] Newbie questions

Paul J. Lareau

Questions

(1) Does anyone know of any additional papers, clarifying instructions, or anything else either on paper on the Internet that would help a real newbie puzzle through the software? The CC2 manual assumes that the person using it has a great deal of prior knowledge of mapping and/or CC1. Obviously I could use "CC2 for Dummies"!

(2) I have downloaded the simplified city symbols, heraldic symbols, etc., from the "archives" off this forum, and I would like to use them in maps, but I have no clue how to do this. It appears that I have to insert them in a catalog, and I have tried for about two hours to do so according to the instructions on p53 with no luck at all. I don't even seem to find the same screens and windows they're talking about. Any suggestions?

(3) In attempting to create new templates (5000x4000, for one, is not shipped with the product), I have "come close" by following the directions on p71, although I have to remember to cut the scale to 0.5 before I use the resulting template. I obviously missed something. Does anyone have any additional standard template scales made up to use?

(4) The right button is supposed to identify buttons. Mine does not. Is this a known bug? Minor problem, but I can't ever remember what all the obscure icons mean, so I keep have to look them up in the book each time.

(5) Mountain symbols. The "non-colored" side is transparent, not opaque. Is that the way it's supposed to be? Layering mountains from back to front makes them look like you can see through them to the last layer. What am I doing wrong?

[CC-L] Newbie questions

Lonny Eckert

> (2) I have downloaded the simplified city symbols, heraldic symbols, etc., from the "archives" off this forum, and I would like to use them in maps, but I have no clue how to do this. It appears that I have to insert them in a catalog, and I have tried for about two hours to do so according to the instructions on p53 with no luck at all. I don't even seem to find the same screens and windows they're talking about. Any suggestions?

Forget about catalogs for now until you are more experienced. Use the Insert Part command from the Insert Menu. Maybe later I'll develop catalogs for heraldry etc.

I drew the heraldic symbols and city symbols which you mentioned on a 1 mile by 1 mile template I created. The template is included in the tutorial one file set. You'll have to practice to determine what scale you want for city symbols, heraldry on big maps. For example, I'd recommend a scale of x60 on a 2000x1600 mile map for heraldric symbols.

> (3) In attempting to create new templates (5000x4000, for one, is not shipped with the product), I have "come close" by following the directions on p71, although I have to remember to cut the scale to 0.5 before I use the resulting template. I obviously missed something. Does anyone have any additional standard template scales made up to use?

Do you mean a x4 scale? FYI: There is a 16 MB file size limit. I doubt you would exceed the file size limit with a x2 scale. I'll bet that you'll run into problems later on if you try working with a .5 symbol scale on a map of this size... Just remember that the square law holds. If you half the symbol scale, you will end up quadrupling the number of entities placed on the map.

[CC-L] Newbie questions

Linda Kekumu

>(2) I have downloaded the simplified city symbols, heraldic symbols, etc., from the "archives" off this forum, and I would like to use them in maps, but I have no clue how to do this. It appears that I have to insert them in a catalog, and I have tried for about two hours to do so according to the instructions on p53 with no luck at all. I don't even seem to find the same screens and windows they're talking about. Any suggestions?

I have found that the easiest way to use these samples is to insert them as parts.

First you'll need to open the file that has the symbol that you want to use (for example Arms of Flanaess.FCW). now that this is the active drawing, go to Insert>Write Part. CC2 will ask you to name a file (for example call it Ahlissa.FCW) & then click save. Now CC2 wants you to select the entity, choose "Each" & select the symbol in the top, left hand corner (Ahlissa), right click & "OK do it". You now have created a part called Ahlissa.FCW that can be inserted into other drawings.

So, start up the map you want to insert Ahlissa into (or open a template) & choose Insert>Insert Part & click on Ahlissa.FC you'll be asked if you want to scale it & then choose a spot on your map to insert it. Just left click & the part is inserted.

[CC-L] Newbie questions

Linda Kekumu

> (5) Mountain symbols. The "non-colored" side is transparent, not opaque. Is that the way it's supposed to be? Layering mountains from back to front makes them look like you can see through them to the last layer. What am I doing wrong?

>Strange, they should look overlapped. Maybe you corrupted your mountain symbols somehow? What do they look like on a print of the map?

Make sure you have selected the filled catalog, not the lines catalog. If you are using the lines catalog you can "see through" parts of it. using the filled catalog produces the effect you are looking for.

To Place Hex Grid on Top of all drawings

The hex grid must be brought to the front of the drawing to be on top of the other entities. There are a number of ways of doing this.

1. Select the FRONT icon, Layer, [right click], select Hex/Square grid, OK-DO-It.

2. Select the FRONT icon, Each, select the hex square grid, OK-Do it.

[CC-L] Coastlines/multipoly ...

Lonny Eckert

Mike Wilson wrote:

> Okay, I've finally got sometime now and would like to try out some of the "unused" features of CC2. My question is on land contures and coastline drawing is sounds like some of you guys use some special method.

> Could someone write a brief example of the steps required to use a coastline and/or conture on a map...assume that I am a complete moron on the subject :)

Forget about fractalizing paths for now.

For sea level landmass:

1. Create a layer called Construction Lines.

2. Make Construction Lines the active layer.

3. Import a properly scaled bitmap as a trace or use calibrated eyes.

4. Draw in the coastline using *paths* on the Construction Lines layer. It's ok to have more than one path in a coastline. Just make sure that you keep the coastline continuous. Draw the coastlines to the map borders and use the "On" command to get the path on the map border.

5. You'll need to completely frame out the landmass with lines/paths/entities. Draw any lines or paths needed to frame the landmass along the map border.

6. Copy the frame of the landmass to the Coasts/Sea layer.

7. Make the Coasts/Sea layer the active layer.

7. Select a solid fill.

8. Select any color other than white.

9. Use the multipoly command and select all of the paths used on the coastline or to frame the land mass. You should have just created a big complicated polygon.

10. Change the color of the landmass to the sea level color.

Other Elevations:

Use same methodology as above but copy the construction lines to the Contours layer instead and multipoly the contour on the Contours layer.

[CC-L] Newbie questions

Linda Kekumu

>(2) I have downloaded the simplified city symbols, heraldic symbols, etc., from the "archives" off this forum, and I would like to use them in maps, but I have no clue how to do this. It appears that I have to insert them in a catalog, and I have tried for about two hours to do so according to the instructions on p53 with no luck at all. I don't even seem to find the same screens and windows they're talking about. Any suggestions?

I have found that the easiest way to use these samples is to insert them as parts.

First you'll need to open the file that has the symbol that you want to use (for example Arms of Flanaess.FCW). now that this is the active drawing, go to Insert>Write Part. CC2 will ask you to name a file (for example call it Ahlissa.FCW) & then click save. Now CC2 wants you to select the entity, choose "Each" & select the symbol in the top, left hand corner (Ahlissa), right click & "OK do it". You now have created a part called Ahlissa.FCW that can be inserted into other drawings.

So, start up the map you want to insert Ahlissa into (or open a template) & choose Insert>Insert Part & click on Ahlissa.FC you'll be asked if you want to scale it & then choose a spot on your map to insert it. Just left click & the part is inserted.

[CC-L] Re: Heraldry

From: Lonny Eckert

Blazon/Blazons software (shareware). The URL for this software can be tracked down from this web page: http://digiserve.com/heraldry/hersoft.htm

**********

Web Pages w/ nice artwork:

http://www.fleurdelis.com/heraldry.htm

http://www.house-of-tartan.scotland.net/house/tfinder.htp

This URL will provide a lot of leads: http://www.digiserve.com/heraldry/

**********

From the rec.heraldry FAQ http://www.heraldica.org/faqs/heraldry.faq

 

 

 

 

Re: GH Map

From: Lonny Eckert

Archimagus wrote:

> 2. How would I rotate the map. On my map the hexes are rotated sideways. What is the bottom of your template should be the side on mine. Could you tell me how to switch it ?

I'm not sure I understand your question exactly. I might be misinterpreting it. Depending on what you are talking about, a new hex pattern might need to be developed. I have some guidance from ProFantasy on how to do so. So if the following doesn't address your question we'll have to talk a bit more.

First of all you need to unprotect all of the layers. In CC talk you need too "unfreeze" all of the layers.

Options>Layer Options>Thaw All (alternatively select the layers "unfreeze" all of the layers.

Edit>Rotate>All>OK Do It. Go back and freeze layers which you don't want to mess up such as the hexes layer...

Re: CC2 template

From: Mark at ProFantasy

>Mark,

>Thanks for the 2000x1600 vertical hex template. I am going to repost it to a CC list that I am on if thatís alright. Three quick questions.

>1. Can I fix it so that the diagonal lines are solid instead of dashed?

Yes. Select Line Style. Select Hex/Square. Select edit. Select "Skip 0....". Select Delete. Select OK.

>2. Can the color of the hexes be changed from grey to black?

Select CHANGE COLOR, COLOR, type 14 and press ENTER, OK DO IT, select 0.

It seems I've also put the hex grid on the wrong layer so then select

CHANGE LAYER, PRIOR, DO IT, HEX/SQUARE GRID.

Re: [CC-L] Converting bitmaps to CC2 Icons

From: Lonny Eckert

Linda Kekumu wrote:

> I was messing around with bitmaps, Corel Draw, dxf & CC2 last night. I can get the bitmap converted & then exported as dxf. CC2 then imports this file (actually it lets you open it), but - it comes in as lines that you can not edit & so I end up with a "wireframe" icon!

Did you ungroup and explode the imported DXF files in CC2?

Re: [CC-L] Converting bitmaps to CC2 Icons

From: Jeffery McArthur

DXF files are problematic. Personally, I don't think they import correctly; but that point is arguable. You should be able to select, the wireframes and "explode" it. This breaks up the grouping.

Actually the best way I have found is to do this: move the wireframe to some unused layer. Now select one one part of the wireframe and move it to its proper layer. Explode the line (using prior). Select the desired fill style and color. Convert the line to a multi-poly (again using prior). Bring the temporary layer to front and do the next set of lines.

I did a LOT of this trying to import maps into CC2. CC2 is not very robust playing around with DXF files. You really need to save your work often. It is very easy to crash CC2 doing this kind of stuff.

Re: [CC-L] Converting bitmaps to CC2 Icons

From: Linda Kekumu

File: CCLConve.mim (40856 bytes)

Here is what I have discovered. In Corel Draw you need to set the Curve Resolution to .05 (this cuts down on the number of lines Corel Draw make, initially I was getting 3 or 4 identical lines for each path). Also, do not check Automatic Weld. Once in CC2 you need to ungroup & explode (Thanks, Lonny!) & then you can do whatever.

I've attached 2 "charges" both of these took about a minute to bring in to CC2 & then clean up. Both can be inserted as parts.

Re: [CC-L] Converting bitmaps to CC2 Icons

From: Jorge Ocasio

>Kai and Dorothy Larson wrote:

>> Is there any simple way to convert bitmap images into cc2 icons? I've tried going through the million step process of creating bitmap fill-styles described in the CC2 manual, but it takes forever, and doesn't always work.

>Raster to vector software that can export to one of the versions of DXF (Autocad) files which CC2 can import is an option. This software will likely be expensive. Otherwise, I don't see any other options to draw the arms or use that million step process...

You don't need Corel Draw, I use Hijaak Pro v4.0. I will also convert any type graphic format into practically any other type. As for cost, it was only $ 80.

[CC-L] Bug(?) Report

From: Lonny Eckert

> Also, while I'm thinking about it, is there any way to shut off the automatic Redraw command? It is very annoying when the whole map redraws every time one of the icon tooltips pops up.

You can use the escape key to cancel a lengthy redraw. I donít think you can turn redraw off.

[CC-L] Contures and "Front"

From: Jeffery McArthur

On Sat, 31 Jan 1998 13:30:44 +0000, you wrote:

>... Thus, if I decide that one of my previous contures is imperfect, I have to go through what seems to me to be a horribly labor intensive process of cutting, changing background fills, pasting, and etc to get everything back in it's proper order. How do you work with these things without screwing up your maps royally?

There is a way to work around it. You need a temporary layer. Generally I grab some layer that I am not using. Move all the "upper" layer contours to temporary layer. Then adjust your contour. Then move all the contours back.

Actually you can adjust the contour without changing the fill. I normally do this by adding control points (the triangle with a plus).If your objects are simple polygons, and not multipolies you can add and remove control points without exploding them.

The more I work with CC2 the less I use multi-poly. You can achieve almost the same thing just using polygons.

[CC-L] Castle Drawings

From: Jeffery McArthur

For a change I started drawing up the Palace of Th' Shoiz Shai Zhai. This is one of my old "dungeons". I am happy with the result, but it was a lot harder than I though it should be. The Palace of Th' Shoiz Shai Zhai has seven stories. There is a main building that is four stories high with a three story tower. I made some attempt at "realism" by creating column supports and load bearing walls that line-up from layer to layer.

To maintain sanity, I found I had to write my first set of macros for CC2. Macros are not well documented in the manual. I had to play around with them for a while to figure out the text command for each macro. The help file is not particularly helpful; it is not consistent in giving the text command for each function. I created 14 layers: Level 1, Level 2, ..., Level 7, and DM Level 1 thru DM Level 7. To switch between layers I use macros like this:

MACRO LEVEL1

SETLAYER LEVEL 1

SHOWA

SETLAYER Level 1

HIDE Level 2

HIDE Level 3

HIDE Level 4

HIDE Level 5

HIDE Level 6

HIDE Level 7

HIDE DM Level 2

HIDE DM Level 3

HIDE DM Level 4

HIDE DM Level 5

HIDE DM Level 6

HIDE DM Level 7

ZNAME Level 1

ENDM

MACRO LEVEL2

SHOWA

SETLAYER Level 2

HIDE Level 1

HIDE Level 3

HIDE Level 4

HIDE Level 5

HIDE Level 6

HIDE Level 7

HIDE Ground

HIDE DM Level 1

HIDE DM Level 3

HIDE DM Level 4

HIDE DM Level 5

HIDE DM Level 6

HIDE DM Level 7

HIDE Vegitation

ZNAME Level 2

ENDM

The macros are not particularly fast. Without them it is a real pain to try and draw up a castle.

Does anyone know how many layers you can have in CC2? I am tempted to create a two layers for each room. One for the players and one for the DM. This would let me print out a map that would be great for miniatures for each room. There are currently 72 rooms/areas. If I did this I would add 144 levels to the map. Since the map currently is quite small, only 75,424 bytes, the size should not be a problem. Am I going to run into problems with this?

[CC-L] RE: Adobe 4.0, images...

From: Linda Kekumu

I'm using Corel Photo Paint, but Adobe should have comparable features. Here is how I pieced the WoG map together. After scanning the map, I think I ended up with 6 pieces, anyway... I opened 2 pieces that I wanted to "stitch" together, then I created a mask (select all) & create object from the mask, then I copied that object piece to the clipboard, resampled the other piece so that it is big enough to hold both images, then I pasted as an object (the masked piece). This allows me to position the one piece over the other. Once it is correctly positioned, I cropped the whole thing & saved it. At the time of saving it merged the 2 pieces into the background.

[CC-L] Bitmap fill not showing

From: Linda Kekumu

When using a bitmap for a fill, the line width MUST be set to 0, otherwise when you draw your box the bitmap will not show.

[CC-L] Bitmaps... problems...

From: Mark at ProFantasy

>I've been having some problems with background bitmaps lately. Basically I add a new Fill Style Property bitmap, background and select my bitmap. I cannot see a "sample" in the normal sample view section nor do I see the bitmap when I select the section on the map. I've tried fill to extent and not... I recall Linda said something about line width must be 0 so I tried that as well... also tried line width 1.

>

>Nothing seems to work on the bitmap... I will note the bmp 6+ meg in size. I have also tried to re-install CC2 but it did not fix the problem.

Most bitmap fill problems are caused by naming problems or dodgy bitmaps. Copy your bitmap over a bitmap that you already know works (e.g. if you've done the Background.bmp example in the manual, save the file then copy your bitmap Over the background.bmp) We haven't found a problem with very large bitmaps.

[CC-L] Contours and "Front"

From: Mark at ProFantasy

>After working with the Saltmarsh map from U2 & it's contours & reworking them ....oh, about a dozen times, I have also come to the conclusion that each contour color should have it's own layer - at least until you're finished fiddling with it. It's not so bad when you are dealing with islands, but a near nightmare if most of the contours touch several borders &/or the coast :-)

>

You may be right. One solution to this problem (if you've drawn the contours "correctly" with multipolies) is to use the following macro:

(this assumes the contour colors are 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8... with 8 being the highest)

MACRO REORDER

RDOFF

SHOW RELIEF/CONTOURS

SHOW RELIEF/CONTOURS

THAW RELIEF/CONTOURS

FREEZEA

SELBYC

FRONT 1

FRONT 2

FRONT 3

FRONT 4

FRONT 5

FRONT 6

FRONT 7

FRONT 8

SELBYD

THAWA

FREEZE MAP BORDER

RDON

REDRAW

ENDM

a similar macro would work with contours on separate layers e.g if they are on contour 1, contour 2 etc. layers

MACRO REORDER2

RDOFF

SELBYL

FRONT contour 1

FRONT contour 2

FRONT contour 3

FRONT contour 4

FRONT contour 5

FRONT contour 6

...

SELBYD

ENDM

I haven't tested either of these macros. This does leave the contours "on top" of the other layers however. I can't think of a simple way round this.

Other solutions:

In any command where everything turns grey, a redraw after excluding entities shows you where they are.

Where you are working with lots of solid filled objects, it's sometimes Better make them hollow or give them a symbol fill until you've finished working With them.

[CC-L] solid lines for hex grid

From: Linda Kekumu

>Second problem: I want solid gray grid lines, rather than dashed "last color used" lines. So I plan to copy the HEX/SQUARE symbol and create my own that uses solid lines. I can save the symbol in text format from the List SymDef window, but how do I import the new symbol? I just want to edit a few parameters, not start from scratch. Or do I have to draw a whole new symbol and then Define Symbol?

>

You need to edit the line style HEX/SQUARE so that it looks solid. Click on the LINE STYLE icon, scroll down to find the HEX/SQUARE entry & then choose EDIT, then delete the lines that says "Skip something or other". This may not work on maps imported from CC DOS because depending on the map, it may (probably) has different line style names. You can not change the line thickness for symbol fills. ProFantasy sent me a Hex Grid that has thicker lines & because it takes a long time to fill, I am working on lengthening the lines so it will draw faster. This hex grid is appropriate for Greyhawk - it is the correct 30 mile hex. AS soon as it's ready, I will post it!

[CC-L] How to do 5' across hex grids

From: Jeffery McArthur

I have not seen anyone post how to do 5' across, side to side, hex grids. Miniatures are easier with 5' across hex girds. The numbers I came up with are:

Symbol name: Hexagon horizontal

Symbol name: Hexagon horizontal

X Spacing: 8.66025

Y Spacing: 5.00000

X Scale: 0.57735

Y Scale: 0.57735

XY Rotation: 0

Questions and horizontal hex grids

From: Mark at ProFantasy

>The grid patterns included in CC2 measure horizontal hexes from hex corner to hex corner. For whatever reason corner to hex corner. For whatever reason, TSR measured hexes from hexside to hexside. I have attached my try at a solution. I also want, the hex grid to be aligned such that the hexes along the left and bottom borders are either perfectly halved or are perfectly complete. That will allow us to easily piece smaller maps into bigger maps in the future without having to align hex grids and/or the drawings themselves. I think I have created the proper symbol to do it but I cant get the grid to align in the desired manner. I think you'll be able to more easily see what I mean when you take a look-see at the maps. I have also attached your original answer on vertical grid patterns.

The alignment of the grid depends on the symbol origin you use. Redefine your hexyhor symbol so that the origin is in the top right corner. It seems you and Linda are working on the same sort of thing. If the two of you could decide between you exactly what you want I will be happy to help.

Perhaps if you think in terms of x hexes by y hexes rather than fixing to a particular template (which can give or take a few miles)

A few notes:

A symbol fill style has the following advantages:

It takes up less memory.

It redraws quickly.

It's easy to create (once defined) and manipulate.

disadvantages:

The fill style pattern is not real entities (you can't use modifiers.) You can't have line width. It's difficult to align.

A hex grid (consisting of paths) consists of real entities, can be given a Fill style and width, is slower, takes up more memory, more difficult to create, easier (maybe) to paste maps together.

[CC-L] Problems with donuts & hex grids

From: Lonny Eckert

Tim Manchester wrote:

> OK, now I've gotten my copy of CC2, set aside time to read the manual and I now am ready to start mapping in earnest. However, I'm trying to map out the homes of some of my campaigns more interesting characters and am encountering the following problems:

>

> 1) I need to draw towers with thick walls. This is easy with the ability to draw donuts. Unfortunately, I can't see how to put a break in the wall for a doorway or archway. How do I put a break in the donut?

EDIT>TRIMS>BREAK

> 2) I use a game system that uses two meter hexes for mapping. I'm having difficulty getting the hex grid to draw at the two meter scale and I have no idea how to get a grid snap that works in hexes (and at this scale).

You'll have to change your units to meters: OPTIONS>UNITS and create an appropriate hex grid.

I donít believe that CC2 has the ability to conveniently SNAP to the center of a hex grid.

[CC-L] Problems with dounuts & hex grids

From: Linda Kekumu

How are you drawing your donuts? Are you using 2 circles? or polys? I have used 2 circles & then can break them, not sure if this works on polys, though.

The hex grid with 4 snap divisions lets you snap to the center & the 4 "corners", but you need to have grid, csrsnap & snap on. Did you get set the Options>Units to meters?

[CC-L] Problems with donuts & hex grids

From: Lonny Eckert

> >> 1) I need to draw towers with thick walls. This is easy with the ability to draw donuts. Unfortunately, I can't see how to put a break in the wall for a doorway or archway. How do I put a break in the donut?

> >EDIT>TRIMS>BREAK

>

> Rats, I've tried this dozens of times and I can't break a donut. I can break a line, but not a donut. Are you using CC2 or some new version of it? Have you successfully done this? If so, where do you place that little box on the donut to select it?

Well I learned something new. Didn't even realize there was a "DONUT" circle function. You donít want to use DONUT I think. To get the effect you desire use CIRCLES. Use BREAK on the circles. Use TRIM if necessary. Use LINE to connect the broken circles. MULTIPOLY the broken circles and lines with a color and fill pattern of your choice...

[CC-L] Fill pattern and a few others

From: Mark at ProFantasy

When drawing maps with CC2, I use paths (or smooth paths) for roads, stopping them at each point of interest (e.g. a path going between City 1 and City 2, stop, a new path from the endpoint of the last path to City 3). That way I can use Length Along to find exact distances between major sites of interest (along roads and rivers at least) I then use TEXT to add the distances to the map.

Back to Fantasy Cartography Next Archive